

I used to eat boxed breakfast cereal every day. I used to keep at least eight or nine different kinds on hand at all times (usually only one “junky” kind), and would take note when new varieties were introduced so I could pick up the latest. After reading Michael Pollan’s In Defense of Food, I have cereal going stale in the pantry because it no longer has the appeal it once did.
Pollan makes the assertion that, in the Western world, we have adopted the ideology of nutritionism, or “the belief that food is foremost about nutrition and nutrition is so complex that only experts and industry can possibly supply it.” We reject whole foods in favor of processed foods that promise us better health. We read the labels that say “low fat” or “with added omega-3″ or “better than butter!”
Because we do not eat “food” (the unprocessed stuff), and instead eat “processed food-like products”, we as a society develop conditions such as type two diabetes, obesity, high blood pressure, etc. Surprisingly, scientists have known for decades that we should not be eating the way we do, but we keep on making ourselves unhealthy while trying to do the opposite. One particularly surprising study – in the 1980s – took Aborigines who had moved to the city, adopted a Western diet, and contracted Western diseases (high blood pressure and diabetes, etc.) and moved them back to the bush. In seven weeks, these men lost weight, and returned their blood sugars into a normal range. Type two diabetics in this country are pill and/or insulin dependent, without any belief that they can become independent from these medications.
An examination of the history of food in the United States, shows that, in just a few generations, we have gone from eating whole foods to buying processed food products – many of these products are sold as being healthier than the “natural” stuff, yet years later we learn that they are killing us (margarine used to be the healthier alternative to butter, then we learned that trans fats were much more dangerous than the fats we were trying to avoid). Today’s grocery stores are filled with processed products, manufactured to make us want to eat as much as possible, while costing food producers as little as possible. We outlaw certain food components to keep ourselves healthy (fat and carbs are currently demonized), and eat the processed stuff (fat free ice cream, low carb bread) without regard to the potential dangers.
Aside from capitalistic motivations for selling us the food we favor, it is difficult to study human nutrition to determine what really is best for us. For one thing, we cannot put humans into a lab on a long term basis and monitor everything they eat – we rely on self reporting, which is iffy at best (not that we would ever LIE about what we eat
, but we don’t always remember everything that goes into our mouths). People also may start out with the best intentions, but they they might eat something that they have agreed not to (even inadvertently – for example, many restaurants put pancake batter into omelets to make the eggs thicker, and we can’t really expect a restaurant to measure the oil used in cooking our meals).
One thing that does seem certain – the components of whole foods appear to have a synergistic effect on our bodies. In other words, taking the fiber out of the fruit or vegetable and adding it to our water does not give us the same nutritional benefit as eating the whole food – and no one is exactly sure why (it’s really impossible to test this).
The final section of the book provides us with several policies to adopt to improve our health and defeat the ideology of nutritionism. One of my favorites is that we should “eat like someone who takes a multivitamin” without actually taking that multivitamin (he does suggest that these supplements are probably a good idea for people over age fifty because evolution favors those who can reproduce, so our bodies might need extra nutritional help after we pass the reproductive years).
Some of the things Pollan says are controversial: some nutritional scientists are still in favor of one nutrient type over another (low fat over low carb, etc.,) and so it’s impossible for everyone, even experts, to agree with everything he says. One particularly disturbing assertion is that low- and nonfat milk products have powered milk in them (to improve their texture), because it contains “oxidized cholesterol” which is likely more harmful for us than other types of cholesterol. I attempted to fact-check this, and found that it was virtually impossible to do, because it all depends on what expert you listen to. (!)
Other advice Pollan gives amounts to plain old common sense, if we really think about it. We eat and drink products fortified with everything from fiber to omega-3s, without stopping to read the dozens of other (mysterious) ingredients used to make that “healthy” food taste good. That cereal in my pantry? I have always prided myself in not buying the “junky kind” (well, not often anyway), but my healthy varieties are heavily processed in order to not only make them taste good, but also to extend their shelf life. Then, because any real nutritional value has been processed away, and then liquid vitamins and minerals have been sprayed onto the finished product.
One thing I wish Pollan had done, other than advise us to purchase a freezer, is provide us with ideas for food storage, not for daily use, but to help us better prepare for emergencies (hurricanes, etc.) that keep us from buying food and may temporarily eliminate the availability of refrigeration.
It’s not Pollan’s fault, but will be difficult for some families without money or resources to buy only the foods he recommends, do all of their own cooking, and even grow their own food (working single parents, or those working multiple jobs, likely rely on the convenience of processed foods. He stresses that those who can should purchase better food, even if it costs more. I know that Pollan is actively working toward informing the public about what he has learned, which may encourage systematic changes that will make it possible for everyone to eat better, regardless of income or resources. Until that happens, I hope he gives people more suggestions to reject the Western diet even with limited time and money – we are listening.
Scroll down for other posts about In Defense of Food:
Other posts about In Defense of Food:
Review
Post 1: In Defense of Food, by Michael Pollan
Post 2: Breakfast Cereal is not a Food?
Post 3: Chocolate Science
Post 4: “Hourly Yogurt Enemas?!”
Post 5: Hunting and Gathering
Post 6: Look Mom – No Cavities!
Post 7: Mainlining Glucose or “I’m Not an Addict!”
Post 8: Food is Religious and Political
Post 9: Whole Milk Sounds Almost Sinful
Post 10: I Don’t Like the Salad, Mommy
Post 11: Let’s Plant a Garden